Changing the brake pads

"zeontestpilot" (zeontestpilot)
01/28/2016 at 08:15 • Filed to: Question

I’ve never done it before, but I’ve heard it’s really easy, how true is that? I need to change the front brakes on my ‘07 Grand prix.

Also, would it be smarter to take it somewhere to have it done instead, since I’ve never done it before? Otherwise, I'm thinking plenty of YouTube videos to learn how to do it. Thoughts?

DISCUSSION (32)

Party-vi > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 08:20

It is teh e z. You should make sure you have a caliper compressor tool or a big c-clamp first, as well as watch some tutorials on Youtube.

Also, check your tire, it’s looking a little low in this picture.

Echo51 > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 08:23

If you find a youtube guide and have the clamp as mentioned, and it’s no special tools you don’t have required, just go for it. Do make sure to pump your pedal the first time you get back in the car to push the calipers out to the pads and make contact, else your first step in traffic/pulling out of your garage/driveway will be to the floor.

zeontestpilot > Party-vi
01/28/2016 at 08:24

It was roughly 33 psi at that moment. I took that pic while stopping at a gas station, 10 minutes into the commute. Don’t think the tires heated up by then.

Do they really look that low? It's 32F outside, so I thought they'd normally look like that.

Ash78, voting early and often > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 08:34

Go to Autozone or Advance and put down the $30-$50 deposit on the tool set. It covers about 99% of all cars and you don’t have to worry about c-clamps or building plywood shims or anything else. Makes the job much more tolerable.

Also, dummy tip: Be sure to open the reservoir and drain it (I like a turkey baster) before starting compression...otherwise, compression won’t really go anywhere.

Put brake quiet adhesive on the backs of the pads to prevent squealing or you’ll just be doing the whole job again later. I like the spray can, but I think they make pastes, as well.

There are lots of generic DIYs out there in writing and youtube, most modern front disc brake systems are very similar.

zeontestpilot > Echo51
01/28/2016 at 08:34

Huh, well I'm aware of that now, so thanks!

Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 08:40

It’s a clown. Who has the same color and wheels as your car. If a pro can do it in 20 minutes it shouldn’t take you more than an hour and a half or so.

iSureWilll > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 08:43

Real easy job.

Top Video is fronts, bottom video is rears.

zeontestpilot > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection
01/28/2016 at 08:45

Oh, I just thought he had a horrible gene pool, thankfully it's just a wig....I think...

Tripper > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:00

Looks low to me too, maybe just the pic?

E92M3 > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:00

It’s easy! Break loose the lug nuts, raise car, remove wheel, remove 2 bolts holding on the caliper, pop out the old pads, compress the piston, insert new pads, reverse assemble.

Watch a youtube video to build your confidence beforehand if you want. Since it’s your first time I will remind you that since you’re loosening the caliper bolts on the backside, pay attention to lefty loosy, righty tighty. Otherwise you could be accidentally tightening the caliper bolts, and wondering why they won’t break loose.

Definitely a job I would DIY. Even though it can sometimes be cheaper to just go to a brake shop, you get to decide what pads to use. The “lifetime brakes” places use pads that are too hard that are made to last, but sacrifice some braking distance. Other places use $15 no name chinese pads.

TheRealBicycleBuck > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:02

It may be the angle. Open the driver’s door and look for the information sticker. It should have the recommended tire pressures.

Kinja'd!!!

Those are the recommended pressures when the tire is cold (not driven). Keep in mind that the temperature range for cold and “warm” tires in the winter is different than in the summer. A “warm” tire in the winter will have a much lower pressure than a warm tire in the summer. Same holds true for cold tires. This is why everyone should check their tire pressures regularly.

TheRealBicycleBuck > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:05

It’s an easy job. Make sure you have all the tools you need (borrow them from Autozone if you need to) and then go for it. Remember to use jack stands and to chock at least one other wheel so it doesn’t roll.

Someone around here had their girlfriend’s car drop off the jack just last month.

PotbellyJoe and 42 others > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:07

I’ve done my own brakes for years. It’s as easy as an 8-12 Lego set. Follow instructions and you’ll be fine.

On the safety side of it.

1. Have jackstands

2. Chock the wheels that are on the ground

3. Put the wheel you are changing the brake on, under the car for example, left front wheel, under the driver’s door area.

4. Where safety glasses. There’s a lot of rust. I go some in my eye once doing a brake job and scratched my cornea. It felt like I had something stuck in my eye for 3 weeks. Not a fun experience.

The good news, all of this can be bought with the savings from doing the brake job and then stored for future jobs.

On the savings side of it.

1. If you are buying from Advanced Auto Parts, or wherever, many times they’ll say $40 off of $100! or whatever, well this is often a $220 job, so break that purchase into to purchases and get that $40 twice. It’s the difference of $140 instead of $180.

The good news is Autozone, for free, has instructions on your vehicle with parts diagrams.

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/rep…

You’ll just have to make an account.

Meatcoma > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:08

pads to rotor, not metal to rotor!

Slant6 > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:15

Could possibly beven the load rating. Not going to kill you or anything.

The Ghost of Oppo > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:22

Definitely an easy job. What I would recommend is, after watching some youtube videos, write down every step on paper. That way you can have something right next to you to follow and you don’t have to worry about touching your phone or computer with dirty hands.

And as always, if you have specific questions, you know where to ask

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:23

I’ll be doing the same task on my in-laws Mountaineer this weekend.

They look nice in the picture, but make sure your Rotors are ok. The last thing you need is to have your car apart and go - shit I need to go buy rotors now. I always say it’s better to have the rotors and return them than it is to have to put the car back together or beg someone for a ride to the parts store.

the toolset their mentioning I actually own one I paid about 40 bucks for it at harbor freight. It makes a huge, huge difference but can be a bit tricky to use. You’ve got my email you can email me or if you have my number shoot me a text. Like I said, I’ll be doing the same thing on Saturday. Wish I had a way to loan you the toolset so you don’t have to have 50 bucks held on your card at advance.

OH don’t forget to grease the slides in the caliper. You know those little grease packets they have by the register in parts stores? Buy at least 1 per end of the car. You could go crazy and use one per corner, but I think 1 at each end of the car (1 front, 1 back) tends to work just fine.

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > Ash78, voting early and often
01/28/2016 at 09:24

The brake quiet on the back of the pads is good advice, but if you’re just changing pads you don’t need to remove any brake fluid. Popping the top is fine but really....no need to remove any, I never have, nor have I seen my professional mechanic father ever do that.

Ash78, voting early and often > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner
01/28/2016 at 09:28

I would say it depends on how full the reservoir is. For front brakes, you won’t be displacing much fluid from the shorter brake lines, so the overflow risk is low.

I’m working under the assumption that all pad changes should come with a fluid flush, since you’re already there doing most of the work anyway.

Good call, though.

yitznewton > zeontestpilot
01/28/2016 at 09:50

I suspect something is wrong with my rotors (Sienna) because of the undulations through the pedal. Is there such a thing as installing new rotors, and taking the old ones to a shop to see if they can machine them for reuse next time?

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > Ash78, voting early and often
01/28/2016 at 09:57

I just wouldn’t recommend him do a fluid flush because then he’s going to have to bleed the brakes and I don’t know if that’s in his skill set.

Ash78, voting early and often > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner
01/28/2016 at 10:01

Good thinking — I guess I never thought about the two separately...I’ve also bled with every pad/rotor change, then bled every 2-4 years between pad/rotor changes.

Either way, I always think it’s worthwhile to know how to do it, just in case you get air in the system. And I’m just lazy and don’t want to do brakes more than I have to :D

zeontestpilot > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner
01/28/2016 at 10:06

Now it just sounds difficult, hmmm...